March 18 - Kohala Coast

At the northwestern tip of the Big Island, we drove down the Old Coast Guard Road, aiming for the old Mo‘okini Heiau. This area of Kohala has short trees sparse among the grass and rocks.

Instead, we wound up at a rocky beach called Honoipu. The wind was at our back, for a change, as we stared out to sea.

It was nice not to have to worry about salt-water spray as I took photographs of the crashing waves.

Turquoise water, Maui just off shore. Chunlin spotted whales breaching. Look at that one! It’s completely out of the water! Oh wait, that’s a bird.

Back up the hill, we found the turn-off toward the heiau, but a locked gate with a “no trespassing” sign dissuaded us from proceeding further.

Down the coast, we stopped at Mahukona Beach. It’s an old harbor from the sugar cane days, I believe, but now in ruins. Snorkelers floated on the shallow water. Little yellow fish hid from them.

On the road again, we stopped at Spencer Beach and visited Pu‘ukohola Heiau, built by King Kamehameha. We sat in the small visitors center and watched a video and enjoyed the breeze.

Lovely piles of rocks.

Our next stop was Puako, which isn't really a town. It's just a long dead-end road with many houses on it, paralleling the ocean. There are a few gaps for public access to the rocky shore.

Lava tidepools. A‘a and rope lava and smooth pahoehoe. Small waves, but they felt big for the tight gaps.

We saw sea urchins, sea cucumbers, tiny fish, three sea turtles, and a pair of eels.

Life is hard on the dry side of the island...

Beijing, part 17: Let There Be Drums

At the heart of old Beijing rises the Drum Tower, from which drummers would beat out the times of the day (and occasional warnings).



Chunyu dropped us off -- Yüfang, Steven, Chunlin, and I -- and up we climbed.



Red columns and beams similar to the Southeast Watchtower. Later Ming Dynasty.



We had a half hour to wait till the 1:30 drum performance.





Views out over the hazy city. Visitors are only allowed on the south balcony -- into the sun, blech.



The tourists were gathering. No time for lunch.



Boom boom bada boom! Impressive five-man drum show on the big drums.





Then we descended and headed next door to the east to the same restaurant as Monday evening. At 2 p.m. it was slightly easier to get a table. Hao chi baozi, pi jiu goes down smooth from a bowl.



We said goodby to Yüfang and Steven. She took food to Chunyu, who was still at the car.


I took a brief look at the nearby Bell Tower, but didn't go inside.

More photos from our visit are on flickr, if you'd like to see them.

Beijing, part 11: Summer Palace

After three long bus rides, we'd traversed the city and arrived at the gate of the Summer Palace, the 18th and 19th Century pleasure park for the emperors. Hot but a breeze kept us comfortable as long as we didn't move. Lots of people visiting, hanging out, flying kites.

We got some food -- baozi, etc. -- and ate it. We then crossed the 17-Arch Bridge to South Lake Island, home of the Dragon King's Temple.







The temple wasn't very photogenic, so we continued onward to the north end of the island.





We fought the tour groups for a seat on one of the dragon boat ferries.




The ferry took us to the ultimate symbol of Empress Dowager Cixi's "let them eat cake" attitude: the marble boat.

"We don't need a modern navy. We need more playthings for me!" Although by that time (1888), it was probably too late for the empire anyway.

We finally started some souvenir shopping. A dragon, rabbit, and monkey for us and a tiger for Amy. A Monkey King and the ingénue from the opera. Jesus armwrestling Satan -- in 3D!

And then we slowly proceded down the Long Corridor -- with uncountable tour groups.


Some of the tour guides carried national flags that had nothing at all to do with the tour group -- the groups looked all Chinese to me. I suppose the national flags were unique and easy to spot in the crush of humanity.






Near the East Gate were the main imperial buildings -- the local throne room, etc. Outside the main hall was this qilin -- a strange mix of dragon, deer, fish, ox, and lion -- which is a good omen of serenity and prosperity.


Outside the East Gate, we caught a bus -- which bus? That bus? It doesn't stop. How about this bus? -- and went to dinner.

I've got more photos from the Summer Palace on flickr, if you'd like to see them.

Beijing, part 8: Beihai Park

Beihai Park is around Beihai, "North Lake." The "bei" is the same character as in Beijing and the "hai" is the same character as in Shanghai. The "hai" in Shanghai refers to the sea, though, and not a lake.

Before we entered the park, we climbed a fortification known as the Round City.


Atop the fort is the last known remnant from Kublai Khan's capital, a jade jar.

Somehow only it was preserved over the centuries. Now it is housed in a small glass box in a courtyard.

We then arrived at the lake, Beihai.


Willow trees around the lake. Chunlin had a couple very nice photos of her by this lake 25 years ago. Here's one from this year.


We crossed the bridge to the Jade Isle and climbed through the Yong'an Temple to the White Dagoba (Bai Ta).









Good view from up top.


We then descended the other side of the hill.

This spiral staircase ended at a blank wall. We had to climb over the guardrail to continue downward. Very odd.

The Ancient Caves of the Jade Islet didn't sound interesting enough to justify the three yuan entrance fee, so we passed them by.

Back at the lake, sweating in the humidity, we waited in the shade of the Long Corridor and caught a boat.




At the north end of the lake are the Five Dragon Pavilions.

That's five pavilions with dragons, by the way. It was at the center of these pavilions that Chunlin had her photo taken 25 years ago. During our visit, elderly folks danced in the center pavilion, so we couldn't spend much time there.

We took a brief look at the closed Xiao Xi Tian ... temple? pavilion? then over to the double-sided Nine Dragon Screen, which actually thus has eighteen big dragons -- and over 300 total dragons, or so they say.


Food time. Tired.

We left the park and hunted. Some small food from local-type restaurants. Kung pao chicken and spicy eggplant.

Bus to subway line 7, to line 1, to line Batong, to get picked up by Chunyu. Standing in the dark under a streetlight by a freeway offramp of sorts. An hour to get home and I couldn't see how it could be quicker.

'Twas Mount St. Helens Day. Big bada boom.

My feet finally started hurting at 6 p.m. Chunlin's feet hurt all day. Vacationing is hard work. Wo bu xi huang gong zuo. Good night.

I've posted twice as many photos from Beihai Park on flickr.